Praying, JJJJound, and Virgil Abloh: the Internet and Fashion.
When Virgil Abloh started blogging in 2005, he inadvertently marked the dawn of a new era of fashion: its digital age. We find ourselves in an an era where established brands are forced to market on social media and leverage the internet while new ventures must grow out of the information debris of the internet, uniquely (or more often than not tritely) re-arranging this debris into a creative sculpture of traceable digital influences.
Whether or not this phenomenon is something to be praised is debatable, but it is undeniable that it is happening. Virgil himself migrated away from the depths of the internet, but that was a unique case. Today, many brands languish in and even embrace their digital heredity.
Photos courtesy of ssense
Praying, a relatively new brand from New York actively and proudly churns out clothing and accessories often plastered with ironic phrases and motifs directly pulled from girl-blogger and other terminally online niches of the internet, most often Instagram. For instance, Praying’s collections features standout pieces like the “Don’t give up” hoodie, a direct nod to the meme trend of poorly designed signs. Another notable item is a t-shirt that simply reads “internet celebrity”, formatted in such a way as to highlight the word INCEL.
Photos courtesy of ssense
The idea of internet phenomena manifest in fashion does not come to a cap at the usage of phrases, however. Praying’s designs resonate with broader Gen Z trends found on Instagram, such as the coquette aesthetic exemplified by rhinestone-encrusted pink satin ballet shoes and airpod-max covers adorned with playful ruffles, a latent gen-z fixation on Christian iconography is touched on in a bikini that reads “Father, Son, and Holy Spirit” on each piece of fabric, and semi-ironic y2k aesthetic is visible in Realtree camo hats and hoodies, bootcut denim, slip dresses, and a Brangelina commemoration hoodie. Suppose Demna Gvasalia’s work at Vetements and Balenciaga is an ironic Millennial response to the fashion industry. In that case, Praying is the terminally online Gen-Z response to nothing in particular - it is an absurdist stream of consciousness laden with self-deprecation and irony.
Photos courtesy of ssense
On the opposite end of the spectrum, JJJJound can be found. Praying champions a sort of ironic maximalism, but JJJJound is a proponent of ultimate minimalism, devoid of irony, graphics, and any vestigial features that might make a garment or item. Originating from an imageboard founded by Justin Saunders in 2006, the brand has been churning out merchandise since around 2010, but it was 2017 that marked its ascent into generally recognized popularity, with not one but TWO GQ articles coming out that year. The brand has produced collaborations with a ridiculous amount of more widely known brands, including but not limited to Dr. Martens, Reebok, Puma, Bape, Eddie Bauer, Danner, Vans, Crocs, Roa, New Balance, and A.P.C. Some have attacked JJJJound’s intense minimalism as lazy or simply not creative, but regardless of the quality of the brand’s designs, it would be hard to deny the influence it has had, not only as a producer of clothes but as a presenter of a distinct aesthetic. JJJJound strives to provide a retreat from the cacophony of modern urban life amid the inescapable, omnipresent influence of the internet, crafting a tranquil sanctuary within both realms. JJJJound produces quiet, refined urban wear and the imageboard board is a sort of quiet, contemplative corner of the internet, like a solo visit to a peaceful, empty gallery on a sunny Saturday afternoon in Montreal. Praying is a $10-to-enter DIY electronic music show in Bushwick. Virgil Abloh’s vision was varying - at one point it was just screen-printed flannels, and at another point, it was a fundamental reinterpretation of arguably the biggest luxury brand in the world Louis Vuitton, at the same time personal, relatable, and truly creative. Now I implore you, the reader, and every other aspiring young creative - use the internet, take advantage of the unprecedented accessibility it presents, and articulate your own unique vision to the world, even if it's one Instagram post at a time.
Featured image courtesy of Office Magazine.