Chanel in Hangzhou and its Uncertain Future
One of the greatest Chinese poets, Su Shi, once said “West Lake here does rival the Beauty of the West/Howe'er she is exquisitely or plainly dressed” (translated by Frank C Yue). The Chinese people have always been enamoured with the delicate beauty of the West Lake in Hangzhou China. It has manifested itself in numerous poems and paintings throughout Chinese history. It has also become the symbol of Chinese imagination for the West, appearing in porcelain vases and coromandel screens, one of which landed in Gabrielle Chanel’s 31 Rue Cambon apartment. The adorned screen depicts rolling hills rising from the lake where people reminisce about the pleasure of life in their rocking boats. This became the backdrop for the most recent Chanel Metier D’art collection, hosted at the West Lake itself. Again completed without an artistic director, the Chanel team came together to imagine a collection as if Chanel was inspired by the Chinese natural beauty of a place she had never been.
Courtesy of Chanel
The Metier D’art shows are once-a-year collections that celebrate the house’s savoir-faire, focusing on the exceptional craftsmanship of the twelve artisan maisons Chanel now owns. From the famous Lesage that provides embroidery for the best couture houses to the feather expert Lemaire, they each showcase their best works in this collection. The clothes that come out of these shows arguably trump those of their couture collections. Because of that, the Hangzhou show was one of the best works from Chanel since the passing of Karl Lagerfeld.
Liu Wen was the first to emerge from the lake, in a floor-length tweed black coat. More exquisite black numbers followed, each adorned with various floral motifs, from Chanel’s iconic camellias to lotus buds that grew on lake. Larger embroidered Chinese imageries appeared, but in a subdued manner, often peeking behind classic tweed skirts, echoing China’s emphasis on subtle beauty. Some looks betrayed such principle, appearing fully adorned in golden threads and shuffling between darker numbers, which were reminiscent of the black and gold coromandel screen itself.
The collection felt more modern than past seasons, especially those executed by Virginie Viard, who parted ways with the house six months ago. Although Chanel has yet to announce a new successor, there are already several rumours of different candidates floating around. One is Hedi Slimane, who recently ended his successful tenure at Celine. Notably his last show at Celine had an undeniable touch of Chanel, which felt much like a job application to the Chanel throne. The most recent rumor was Matthieu Blazy, apprentice to Raf Simons, who took over Bottega Veneta after Daniel Lee. At Bottega Veneta, Blazy had turned the ready-to-wear line around into a luxurious and elegant wardrobe that does not shy away from intricate craftsmanship. Between Slimane and Blazy, Blazy would be the better candidate if we cared only for fashion, but we also cared for revenue, Slimane easily trumps Blazy. With more experience under his belt and his unbeatable record of making all of Dior Homme, Saint Laurent, and Celine into massive cash cows for their owners, Slimane has a desirable skill of making merchandise that sells. Blazy on the other hand, has yet to prove himself to be a cash machine, but Bottega Veneta has grown steadily under his direction.
The Hangzhou collection raises an important question: does Chanel still need an artistic director? The success of this collection, created through collaboration among the artisans, suggests a different possibility. Without a single vision driving the process, the clothes managed to be both cohesive and thoughtful, blending subtle Chinese influences with Chanel’s signature aesthetic. This approach highlights the potential of relying on collective expertise rather than one central figure. The result was a collection that felt fresh and modern, proving that Chanel’s strength might lie in its craftsmanship and teamwork rather than the vision of an individual leader.
Featured Image Courtesy of 10 Mag