Style Icons: Andre Leon Talley
To quote the premiere superhero costume designer Edna Mode: “NO CAPES!”
Andre Leon Talley, with his love of dramatic and unnecessarily large capes, would vehemently disagree with Edna’s statement. Talley grew up in a middle class African American Family, with his grandmother deeply inspiring him to pursue his career and his passion for fashion. Through his career, Talley became one of the most influential fashion editors working in Vogue as the first Black Creative Director. Rising through the historically White ranks of his industry, Talley self-proclaimed himself as “the only Black man among a sea of White titans of style.” His work as an activist for Black voices cannot be understated, as seen by his work with Naomi Campbell for a reimagining of Gone with The Wind for Vanity Fair.
Through his studies in French Literature, Talley’s style is characterized by his bold pattern choices, oversized clothing, impeccably fitted suits, and always a larger-than-life cape. As stated by Talley, “The cape is my thing. It’s what I do best. I love the drama, the fantasy, and the elegance it brings to an outfit.”
Courtesy of Vogue
One of his iconic looks was shot on the Pont Alexandre iii. Talley wears an impeccably fitted suit and a custom Tom Ford kimono designed with Eastern-inspired animal and flower motifs, as well as royal blue and red accents. Gifted to him by Tom Ford, the cape showcases Talley’s close relationships with many top designers. His ability to critique work as a fashion editor with his over-the-top personality helped him gain limitless opportunities within the fashion industry. With this came numerous achievements and, of course, free clothes!
Courtesy of Elle
Here, Andre Leon Talley is photographed with Marina Schiano in the 1980s, showing a knack for personal styling in his younger years while hinting at motifs that would repeat in his later fashion statements. The bold checker-patterned suit jacket, along with the velvet ballet slippers, are common items within his repertoire of clothing. Talley’s ability to break traditionally masculine notions on formal dress through his use of color and fun accessorization, like knee-high socks, displays his confidence. It is through fighting norms like these that Talley has become a style icon.
Another iconic look was shot in his home in White Plains, New York during 2016. In it, he wore a red padded, Norma Kamali coat complemented with a burgundy turtleneck and leather gloves. This was later recreated by Rihanna and her stylists during her superbowl Half-time show. Talley’s ability to inspire industry greats give a new meaning to his icon status. Though Rihanna’s coat was created by Alaïa, it was made in reference to Talley—a long-time friend and inspiration for her. Fashion icons gain their status through inspiring creatives, and Talley's lasting legacy in the fashion industry is undeniable.
Through bold and colorful looks like these, Talley expressed his larger-than-life personality and love for living a life full of extravagance and opulence. He paved the way for Black, queer voices to put on their own capes in the industry and to live unapologetically and with pride. Talley died in January 2022 but with him follows a rich legacy of inclusivity and diversity in the Fashion industry.
Featured image courtesy of Vogue