Fashion and Fungi? - Exploring the Use of Biomaterial and Biotechnology in Fashion

Over the past few years, the fashion industry has undergone a remarkable transformation in which designers and scientists have collaborated to redefine the boundaries of traditional fashion. This synergy between style and science is not only expanding the horizons of fashion but also tackling sustainability concerns. This article will explore the revolutionizing world of biomaterials and biotechnology within the fashion sector and their potential to cultivate a more sustainable future. 

These biological processes are becoming increasingly integrated into the world of design, revolutionizing the way we perceive and produce clothing and accessories. At the heart of this transformation lies the concept of utilizing the incredible capabilities of living organisms to develop fashion items. Whether it’s mycelium or algae, we can see these biomaterials are being incorporated into the design process. This symbiotic relationship between biology and design is offering designers and those alike a unique opportunity to reduce the industry's environmental footprint while also challenging the norms of functionality and aesthetics.

Let's look at some ways the fashion industry is looking at incorporating biomaterials and biotech into their production process:

3D Printing

One of the most prominent uses of biotechnology in fashion is the use of 3D printing. This technology allows designers to bring visions to life by creating intricate garment designs using eco-friendly, biodegradable materials derived from renewable sources, such as plant-based polymers, fungi, or recycled plastics. 3D printing not only minimizes waste but also enables on-demand manufacturing, catering to individual preferences, and reduction of overproduction.

Biofabrication

Biofabrication, also known as bioengineering, includes using  living cells or biomolecules for items such as textiles or leather alternatives. We can see companies investing in pioneering the production of fibers that mimic the strength and durability of natural silk while being more sustainable and ethical.

Biosynthetic Dies

Traditional textile dyeing processes often involve harsh chemicals and significant water consumption. However, these new advances in biotechnology offer a more eco-friendly solution through the use of microorganisms to produce natural, biodegradable dyes. We have seen examples of companies tapping into the power of algae and microbes to create vibrant and long-lasting colors.

We can look at some examples of how powerful fashion brands have started to incorporate these biomaterials or similar processes into their operations…

Hermès has been one of the first movers in the luxury fashion industry to invest in biomaterials and their incorporation into their product line. We have seen features of vegan leather made from mycelium, which is the thread-like structure of Fungi that forms a dense underground network. Over time, the mycelium threads begin to fuse together forming a solid, foam-like material which can be flattened and made into ‘mushroom leather.’ The bag, as shown below, is called the Victoria Shopper Bag, and is now commercially available.

We can take a look at one of the more biologically focused  companies such as “Modern Synthesis,” which is a London-based biotech company that focuses on bringing new materials to life. One of their more recent projects has been a collaboration with Ganni, a Danish born fashion brand, to make the ‘Bou’ bag, made from bacteria. The bag will be available to buy in 2025. Ganni has always placed a certain importance around sustainability and their mission is to reduce global footprint and break the fast fashion cycle, so it comes as no surprise that they have acted innovatively, focusing on biomaterials.

So what does this mean for the future of fashion?

The main takeaway is that fashion is moving forwards to find a holistic approach to innovation and sustainability. I think there are several progressions to watch out for, such as sustainable material innovation, customization, and on-demand production with a focus on 3D printing and biofabrication. As society as a whole moves towards greener production systems, we will see an increased importance placed on the circular design process with biotechnology facilitating the development of closed-loop systems, so that materials can be repurposed or recycled. We can also look at functional fashion and biomaterials, where these biotechnological processes can imbue textiles with unique properties, such as moisture-wicking, antimicrobial, or self-healing capabilities, enhancing the functionality and performance of fashion products.

Overall, as the fashion industry continues to embrace this futuristic alliance between biology and design, we can expect to witness a renaissance of innovative and sustainable creations that not only captivate our senses but also contribute to a greener and more responsible future.

Featured image courtesy of Textile Learner

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