Honoring a Legacy: Roberto Cavalli SS25 Show
“Roberto, where are you? You're missing the party.”
“Missing the party? How can I miss the party? I am the party!”
These words rang out from a projection of Roberto Cavalli at the Cavalli SS25 show in Milan. Puglisi is no stranger to Cavalli runways, having been the brand's Creative Director since October 2020. But this Milan Spring/Summer Fashion Week marked the first show since the founder Roberto Cavalli’s death in April of this year. This 62-look SS25 show paid homage to the brand's founder while also still maintaining Puglisi's strong design identity. This show not only presented a stunning, innovative collection from Puglisi but also served as the perfect tribute to the legendary Roberto Cavalli, who revolutionized fashion with his unashamed sex appeal and boisterous print work.
Inspired by Puglisisi’s hometown Messina, a harbor city in northeast Sicily, the first half of the collection began with the sounds of the ocean and 20 effortlessly sexy white looks. Puglisi has been at Cavalli for almost 4 years and while it’s still one of the louder brands in Milan, it’s far more subtle than it was in Roberto’s time. This is thanks to Puglisi’s efforts to create effortlessness and everyday looks in Cavalli. Emphasizing clean lines and a sculptural approach Puglisi allows the textures of his clothes to shine. These clothes reflect the rugged beauty of Sicily, with an emphasis on natural fabrics like jute ropes, raffia, cotton, and silk. The tasteful cutouts, short hems, high slits, and detailing made up of fishing nets, and rope often in pre-rumpled fabrics as if they had been packed up in a suitcase. The absence of prints in these looks draws attention to form and detailing, with each garment carefully created to elicit a sense of ease.
As the music ramped up so did the designs, as Puglsisi sent out a set of gold and faux snakeskin garments. Whilst continuing the beachy motifs with braided rope hems and belts, this turned the show to the classic Cavalli boisterousness and print that was expected of the late designer. Then Puglisi rose the sun and called in the tide, bringing us back to Messina. He sent out a slew of prints and colors on gorgeous froissé flowing fabrics with rope detailing and matching shoes. The pieces had ocean waves printed on sheer fabrics that created an interplay of light and movement simulating the rippling of waves. This created a dynamic energy but also effortless fluidity on the runway that transported the audience to Sicily. Finally, the collection ended with a short but breathtaking series of glitzy mermaid gowns that immediately conjured the thought of Cavalli.
But then, just as the show was seemingly at its close, a video of Roberto flashed up onto the back wall and his unmistakable voice cast over the crowd. As his words faded, Mariacarla Boscono walked out in the same feathered gown she originally modeled in the Cavalli AW 2004 show. Then came Alek Wek in another feathered gown that she also walked in the AW 2004 show. As the crowd continued cheering, out walked Joan Smalls, Isabeli Fontana, and Natasha Poly in colorful print dresses inspired by the AW 2000 show and Aaliyah’s yellow Cavalli 2001 VMAs look. Followed by Karen Elson in a figure-hugging gold dress that she walked in the AW 2004 show, and finally, to close out the muses, came Eva Herzigová in a stunning leather dress she walked in 2003 for the Cavallis AW show. Then Puglisi emerged with the group of Cavalli muses, bowed in front of Eva, Cavalli’s widow, and walked the last walk with her—a beautiful finale for an amazing tribute and collection.
Courtesy of Jacopo Raul
Featured Photo Courtesy of Vogue Runway