Gender Expression through Fashion: An Evolution from Past to Present and Onwards

For centuries, clothing has been inherently gendered, a great force in the way that men and women have reaffirmed their respective masculinity and femininity. Historically, failure to subscribe to societal normalities of gendered fashion has resulted in dangerous repercussions. Thus, the idea of someone dressing in clothing that is not traditionally aligned to their sex assigned at birth has been highly stigmatized, often aligning with the homophobic and transphobic ideals that have plagued our societies for ages. In the United States, people began breaking out of this mold beginning in the early 20th century, exploring new avenues of fashion. They were met with much hostility and criticism over their clothing choices. Then in the 70s and 80s, we start to see bigger stars joining this movement, with notable figures such as Prince and David Bowie experimenting with gender-fluid styles.

*Designer* *Harris Reed. Courtesy of* *Harper's Bazaar*

LGBTQ+ people and people of color have been at the forefront of this movement for as long as it has existed. Members of our society have repressed these groups, silencing their voices and thus preventing this movement from gaining significant traction. As social and political movements have progressed in granting marginalized groups greater freedom and safety in the United States, it has become more common to see people exploring gender-fluid styles. This followed after many years of work from activists such as Marsha P. Johnson and Sylvia Rivera, who fought against racism, transphobia, and homophobia. Their contributions are the reasons why we can even begin to discuss the freedom of identity and expression as it exists in the fashion world today.

When I talk about gender-fluid or gender-neutral fashion, I am not referring to basic pieces that are labeled as neither feminine nor masculine. Rather, I am talking about flexibility in fashion. That is the ability to explore any fashion style, regardless of one’s own gender identity. Degendering fashion is a way for people to express their individuality, unsubscribing from the cookie-cutter ideas of what fashion means and looks like. It is a means for people to explore their gender, especially for those who do not identify as cisgender. If we successfully normalize these trends, we may facilitate a much safer environment for all people to experiment with their fashion, exploring feminine, masculine, gender-neutral, and combined styles. This does not mean that everyone has to or will take the liberty to wear gender-nonconforming clothing, but it does open people's minds to this dress and gives freedom to those who do choose these styles.

*Marc Jacobs Fall 2022 Design. Courtesy of* *Fashion Magazine*.

There still exist many barriers today preventing us from moving away from traditional gender roles in fashion. Gender norms, in both clothing and in general, remain an integral part of our American society. Most notably, toxic masculinity holds firm in the fashion industry. We can attribute this to the conservative beliefs that many people still have regarding gender and sexuality. Brands, catering their products to their audiences, remain hesitant to explore and promote gender-fluid clothing styles for this reason. It has only been in recent years that movements challenging standards of masculinity have gained traction, with great numbers of people taking to social media and using their voices to call for the freedom of gender expression. Some notable influencers who participate in gender-fluid fashion include Ady Del Valle, Jazzmyne Jay, Alok V Menon, and so many others.

*Courtesy of* *alokvmenon* *on Instagram,* *Girl Talk HQ, and* *Daily Mail*.

Notable Figures

One instance of someone exploring their femininity through fashion in recent years was Harry Styles as he appeared on the December 2020 cover of Vogue. He is pictured wearing a blue, floor-length dress. Because of his fame and his former traditional masculine style, this photo release was met with tremendous feedback, both positive and negative, from fans and strangers alike. We must recognize the fact that much of Styles’ popularity in this movement is attributed to his white privilege. Therefore, while this photoshoot facilitated productive conversations surrounding gender expression, we cannot give Harry Styles all of the credit for breaking toxic masculinity standards as many sources have been doing. There are plenty of other LGBTQ+ people and people of color who have been pushing these boundaries for years.

Prince, for example, gained much attention for his dress and his gender nonconformity in the 1980s. He was known for his stand-out styles, often pictured wearing feminine clothing and makeup. With his combination of high heels and groomed facial hair, he transcended the strict gender rules existing in the 80s to embrace androgyny. We can also thank Lil Nas X, Lenny Kravitz, Young Thug, and all of the other individuals who have broken toxic masculinity standards and pushed gender boundaries past a point that we as a society have never been comfortable with before.

Here are some examples of stars defying gender traditions through fashion:

Bretman Rock pictured wearing sky-high Harry Halim boots while out in New York City in 2022.

Ziibiwan Mahgagahbow wearing an IAmAnishinaabe piece in 2018, created by Indigenous American designer, Delina White.

David Bowie wearing a whimsical bodysuit, designed by Kansai Yamamoto, while on his Aladdin Sane tour in 1973.

Billy Porter wearing an elegant, magenta Christian Siriano gown to the 2023 Golden Globes.

Andrej Pejic modeling an open, Jean-Paul Gaultier suit in 2011 January show.

The Future

There are many ways that current trends delve into gender-fluid fashion. Such styles include longer men’s hairstyles, such as mullets. In recent years, we have seen men branching into the beauty world, wearing makeup that ranges anywhere from a light concealer to a full face. Men have also taken to incorporating crop tops, purses, and heeled boots into their wardrobes. Women are now often wearing oversized clothing, combating traditional trends that highlight feminine silhouettes. It has also become more common for women to wear formal menswear, such as blazers and slacks.

Beyond this, there exists a great opportunity to mix and match feminine and masculine styles and create a more androgynous look. For example, someone may pair a tight-fitting shirt with baggy trousers, or wear a button-up blouse with a lot of jewelry. For a very simple look, basic pieces, such as plain t-shirts and jeans, will always be a great and easy option to don a gender-neutral outfit. If you are looking for ways to explore gender-nonconforming fashion, these things prove great starting points.

Moving forward, we need to work to destigmatize gender-fluid fashion. Even as it is becoming more and more common to see androgynous pieces on the runway and the red carpet, people still face criticism for gender-fluid styles in everyday life. I look forward to the day when everyone may feel safe and confident in their identities and have the complete freedom to express themselves as they wish through their style and dress.

Featured image courtesy of The Huffington Post UK.