Defying Nature: Our Obsession with Aging

These days it seems impossible to go on TikTok or Instagram Reels without seeing a 10-year-old girl show off her extensive skincare collection, mixing multiple Drunk Elephant products into a “potion.” So many questions rush through my head. Why do they need all of that? Who’s paying for those expensive products? Do I need to buy that stuff? Am I already old? As a recently turned 21-year-old college student, I can’t help but feel behind in my anti-aging journey. This got me thinking “Do I even need an anti-aging plan yet? Or at all?” I’ve since done my research and will spell it out for you here.

For centuries, a woman’s worth has been tied to her beauty and, thus, a youthful appearance. Our obsession with preventing aging has “made aging feel like a moral failure.” Skincare and cosmetic companies then capitalize off this insecurity to sell their products. Many are marketed towards everyone, instead of the niche, target group. While I believe there is nothing wrong with wanting to look your best, skincare should be simple. And if you are having issues with your skin, the advice of a dermatologist has more to offer than the advice of a 10-year-old makeup influencer.

Courtesy of ENews

One chemical that has recently made waves is retinol. If you don’t know, retinol is a form of vitamin A used in many skincare products as an anti-aging tool. Its benefits include smoothing wrinkles, reducing hyperpigmentation, unblocking pores, healing acne, and increasing skin hydration. Knowing that a young child’s skin does not need any of this is intuitive. In fact, “children only need a gentle cleanser, a noncomedogenic moisturizer (i.e., one that doesn’t clog pores), and sunscreen.” The question remains: when should retinol use begin? There isn’t a clear answer; however, the consensus is to begin using retinol in your mid-20s. You should start with the lowest concentration and work your way up, as retinol can cause dryness, itching, and irritation if used too frequently. For those who want to incorporate retinol into their weekly routine, you must also commit to wearing sunscreen every day. Retinol breaks down in sunlight and also increases the skin’s sensitivity to the sun. If proper precautions are not taken, your skin could be severely damaged; yet, another reason why retinol should only be used by adults.

Courtesy of Chatlaine

Some other common chemicals are alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs). Both categories include a variety of acids that act as exfoliants. AHAs specifically remove the top layer of skin cells to encourage cell growth and, thus, cell turnover. This leads to a new layer of smooth, fresh skin. Some of the more well-known AHAs are lactic and glycolic acids. The benefits of AHA use are gentle exfoliation, improved skin texture, reduced signs of aging (wrinkles, loss of elasticity, etc), reduced sun damage, and healed acne. BHAs work in a similar way to improve skin texture, reduce blocked pores, and break down blackheads. BHAs tend to work better for oily and acne-prone skin. The most well-known BHA is salicylic acid. AHAs and BHAs increase sensitivity to UV light and should always be worn with sunscreen. It's important to note that AHAs are generally more aggressive than BHAs and don’t contain the antibacterial properties that BHAs do. Overuse of these chemicals can break down the natural skin barrier and cause more harm than good. Your skin will let you know if a product is overused as it will become dry, irritated, blotchy, or more sensitive to other products. These products can be very helpful when it comes to managing acne, wrinkles, and sun damage. However, you must figure out what is best for your skin and be aware of the potential side effects. Especially for young users, AHA/BHAs can rapidly damage the skin barrier. Though you may feel pressure to get results immediately and want to use the product constantly, moderation is the key.

Courtesy of Women’s Health Mag

The last form of anti-aging care I wanted to mention is baby botox. Recently, there has been a rise in social media advocating for the procedure as a great way to prevent wrinkles and the visible effects of aging. The idea behind baby botox is to prevent your muscles from moving so your wrinkles won't be as deep and you can invest less in your anti-aging practices later in life. Despite the difference in name, baby botox is the exact same formulation and type of procedure as regular botox. The only real difference is the amount, or the number of units, of botox used and a slightly shorter period of effectiveness (3 months). The benefits of baby Botox in comparison to the real deal are a more natural look, fewer side effects, preventing wrinkle formation, the ability to still move the muscles in your face, and the release of jaw tension. It's recommended “for younger patients, or patients who have less defined or etched lines.” The side effects are similar to regular botox, such as bruising at the injection site, droopy eyelids or eyebrows, and asymmetrical results. It’s not recommended to begin getting baby botox until you see wrinkles begin to stick around. This age is specific to each person. However, this tends to be somewhere around your late 20s or early 30s. The rise of anti-aging media and products has shifted the average age to start Botox much earlier. As said by Joshua Zeichner, the director of cosmetic and clinical research at Mount Sinai Hospital, “A few years ago, it was extremely rare for any woman in her twenties to be considering [botox].”

All of these anti-aging solutions can be safe and effective. However, you should be aware of the potential risks and side effects. Most of these products should NOT be used on young skin. Just like everyone else, I want to set myself up to have the best skin possible as I age. But I can’t help myself from challenging the notion that aging equals bad. Should we as a society rethink our relationship to age and the requirements placed on women to maintain the worth attributed to their youthful beauty? Or is the advancement of scientific research a good thing? I am not so sure.

Featured Image Courtesy of Aesthetic Center of Columbia